Applying Wood Veneer with Backing

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When hobbyist woodworkers do any sort of kind of veneering, they usually collaborate with Blumer & Stanton. These un-backed sheets are great for tiny jobs, as well as though they can be utilized for huge work, many business woodworking stores make use of paper or phenolic-backed veneers due to the fact that they’re more convenient. You could choose for yourself which is much better for your task, however right here’s how you can apply timber veneer with backing.

Veneers are backed with either paper or phenolic. The paper-backed things is exactly what you ‘d assume- veneer with a thin layer of paper applied to one side. Phenolic is made use of in plastic laminate, as well as it’s that layer of black material you see on all the filed edges of a laminated counter top. Paper and also phenolic-backed veneers can be worked the same ways. If you want to learn more on this visit http://www.blumerandstanton.com/.

Backed veneers are simple to collaborate with. They do not divided or fracture as quickly as raw veneers, as well as they work with a wide variety of adhesives. PVA glue, contact adhesive and hide adhesive will all work. The backing holds the veneer with each other and even protects against fracturing. A backed veneer will not should be flattened; it prepares to use promptly.

Always reduce your veneer a little larger than the substrate. You’ll cut it to dimension after it’s applied. For a 25-1/2″ x 84″ countertop, you may intend to reduce your veneer to 26-1/2″ x 85.” Use a slim, also layer of call adhesive to the backing as well as the substrate. Wait a couple of mins for the sticky to get ugly. The guidelines on the could ought to tell you how long this will take.

When you position the veneer on the substratum, it will bond instantaneously, so you’ll need to make use of some dowels or slim strips of wood to maintain it separated until you have it located appropriately. If you reduce your veneer 1″ larger than the substratum, you can leave 1/2″ of overhang right around the piece and then start getting rid of dowels, individually. Pull out a dowel, massage your hand along the veneer to push it right into the substrate, and afterwards go on to the following dowel. You can begin at one end of the work item or from the middle, however don’t start from each end. That’ll develop a bubble in the center of your piece that will not come out.

When you have the veneer ready, get rid of one dowel at once. Start from one end as well as pursue the various other. Location the veneer to ensure that it overhangs the substratum uniformly on all sides, after that begin getting rid of dowels from one end, functioning in the direction of the various other.

Once you have all the dowels eliminated, you could cut the veneer to dimension with a router and even flush-trimming bit. Then, use a j-roller or a piece of solid wood with a rounded edge to use even stress to the whole surface, ensuring a great bond. You’ll have some unclear sides where you trimmed the veneer flush to the job, however that can be promptly gotten rid of with some sandpaper. Phenolic-backed veneer can be filed like plastic laminate.

MDF, MDO as well as particleboard are all great substratums for backed veneers because they tend to be flat and also smooth. The sides can take in a bunch of sticky, so you need to layer them thoroughly to guarantee the veneer will certainly stick. You can seek some help from Blumer and Stanton if you need to learn more.

A backed veneer may not always be the best option. It’s fantastic for cupboards and kitchen counters, yet a trained eye will observe the tiny line of the paper support underneath the veneer. For fine furniture, you might want to stick to the raw stuff, yet when you’re looking for a combination of excellent appearances and even simple application, take into consideration a backed veneer.

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